Hey Curlfriends let me tell you a bit about this client before we get into the service.
She's a regular, and she is comfortable with her hair and her hair routine. It's been a while since she was in, life was lifing and she colored her hair at home. I told her I like the color I just wanted to spice it up a bit for her. She agreed and we're here now.
Her regular service is a blow dried stretched cut. She likes to flat iron her hair every now and again so she accepts that when her hair is curly it isn't quite uniform in shape. We had a whole conversation about it. So when she came in yes her hair had been flat ironed, no, I wasn't bothered because I know that's part of her thing. I didn't do that though.
Side Note:
- We did talk about which type of flat iron she is using and she uses a ceramic one. That's what I recommend because titanium irons are just too much and they are decimating curl formations.
- If you are going to be servicing curly clients I strongly suggest you have both. One for the clients who want to maintain their curl pattern and one for those who don't give a damn, just make it straight as possible.
I could see some slight, very slight color variations and that has to do with application and processing. But the color was relatively uniform which is also what made it look like home color. So to break it up I suggested some copper highlights to jazz it up.
Keep in mind
- She is NOT a hair color client, she is a haircut client who colored her own hair when life was lifing.
- We are just jazzing it up so she can enjoy the life of the color.
- Her shrinkage will lengthen the life of her color
Why is that important?
- Placement - Where I put the highlights matters. If I want her to become a hair color client, she has to love the color experience from the initial application and all throughout the grow out process.
- Product Selection - This color must age well, just in case she decides not to refresh or retouch it. This is one reason I choose Elumen for most of my clients. She has to grow all this color out and realize she likes her look more with it than without, and at EVERY stage of the color.
Today I'm using:
- A foil comb
- Foils
- Double prong clips
- Butterfly clips
My formulas are:
- Mix 1 B(9g) + 20vol(27g) + Olaplex
- Mix 2 B(10g) + 30vol(30g) + Olaplex
- Mix 3 B(5g) + 40vol(15g) + Olaplex
- Toner: Ellumen KB@7 All over
My Sections:
. 
In this middle/crown section I put my foils in vertically so I don't need as many and it keeps the color from looking shelfy when the hair is curly
I was going to go in and add some lowlights as well but I decided against it. That being said. I left my subsections a bit larger but it worked out. My foil sections are about 1/4" and my subsections are about 3/4".
I leave about 1" of "buffer" around her hair line. I don't put any highlights right up next to her hairline. This is so she never has "growout". Her curls will camaflouge it pretty well too. If she decides to just grow it out though it's going to be six months before she looks like she has growout.
She lifted to a nice even 8G. I shampoo and condition her hair before toning. I DO NOT use Olaplex#2 before I tone her. The reason is Elumen doesn't work after Olaplex. I'm not sure why but it's a fail and I'm still looking for answers.
The elumen will intensify the darker color giving us a rich cinnamony color and stain the lightened hair to the copper that we want.
